Tonga
Tonga is unbeatable for those that love the ocean, are comfortable snorkeling or freediving and want to see humpbacks underwater. In September and October humpback mothers rest while curious newborn calfs swim up to snorkelers twirling, breaching and splashing on the surface. Vava’u is a wonderful home base where boats go launch Monday through Saturday in search of whales.
When to go
Prime time for humpbacks in Vava’u is July to October. In the early part of the this season, lucky divers may witness a “heat run,” in which many male humpbacks chase a female humpback in a action packed race to mate. the whale swimming industry is regulated, and last I heard there were 20 permits for boat operators in Vava’u who can operate one or two boats taking small groups of free divers (snorkelers) out six days per week.
Later in the season, mother and calf pairs (sometimes with “escorts”) can be found hanging out in the shallow areas. Because weather can change day by day. I recommend taking six or more water days. When I was there last, we encountered whales on every water day, but some days we spend hours with multiple pairs of whales and some days the encounters were mere minutes.
Amenities in Vava’u
There are restaurants in Vava’u, but hardly any retail or shopping opportunities, so pack whatever you need. There is an ATM in town. All operations (including diving, swimming, boating operations) except restaurants are closed on Sundays for worship.
Most places to stay are booked one or more years in advance by trip leaders who also pre-book boats in the area during the very popular whale season.
For many, the chance to swim in the water with mother and calf humpbacks is one of the most beautiful in water experience of their lives. Some call the experience “life altering.” I am not one for hyperbole, but I would call the experience enchanting, magical and surreal.
How to arrange
There are many underwater photographers and trip organizers that lead trips to Tonga. I went with HumpbackSwims.com and Nadia Aly. Nadia organized dinners, the best restaurants and the boat operators. We stayed at Vava’u Villa in 2017, but there are numerous other options, but again, one needs to book well in advance generally. Accommodations at Vava’u Villa consisted of tents with full bathrooms. These were quite comfortable and felt nothing like camping. The Vava’u Villa served up good dinners (including delicious pizza one night a week) and breakfasts of fresh tropical fruit, toast, cereals and more. The place is run as an eco-friendly resort re-using whatever they can.
